#Plans for wooden tool box install
#Plans for wooden tool box full

#Plans for wooden tool box install

Temporarily install the bottom and cut the drawer backs (G1-G4) to length-they just butt between the drawer sides.The woodworking or carpentry field is a very vast and extraordinary field in which you have many choices of making different types of wooden materials. Temporarily assemble the drawer fronts and sides and cut the bottoms to fit. These joints requires some careful tablesaw work, but you can use the same setups for each drawer, regardless of its size.ДЄfter making the joints, cut rabbets along the bottom edges of the drawer fronts and sides to receive the drawer bottoms. For better looks-and a stronger drawer-I recommend using a half-blind tongue and rabbet joint (Fig. Your eye certainly wonвЂ™t linger on it each time you open a drawer. Although rabbeted and nailed joints arenвЂ™t all that strong, gluing the plywood bottoms (H) to the front and sides of a drawer will minimize the amount of stress on its corners, so this joint is strong enough.ДЄ nailed rabbet doesnвЂ™t have much curb appeal, however. The simplest method is to cut rabbets on the ends of the drawer fronts, then glue and pin-nail the sides to the fronts using 3/8вЂі long 23-ga. The next steps depend upon how you intend to join the drawers. Place a shim above this drawer side, measure the distance to the next hanger and repeat the process. Place one of these sides in the case, engaged with the hanger, bottom edge down ( Photo 9). Set the tablesawвЂ™s fence this distance from the blade, then cut grooves in the two appropriate drawer sides. Place a shim against the inside bottom of the case and measure the distance to the first drawer hanger. First, mark the bottom edge of each drawer side-this edge will go against the sawвЂ™s fence. Use the same spacers between the sides when you take a measurement for each groove.Д¬utting these grooves in the correct position on the drawer sides requires careful marking and accurate measuring. Install drawer hangers in the case, then cut grooves in the drawer sides to match. Make the grooves with a dado set, using shims to get their width just right. These grooves should be about 1/64вЂі wider than the hangers so the drawer will slide freely. In the next step, youвЂ™ll cut grooves in the drawer sides to receive the hangers. Place four of these pieces into the stopped dadoes on one side of the case. Cut the stock into pieces that are about 1/2вЂі extra-long. First, make the stock for the drawer hangers-it should fit snugly into the stopped dadoes. Now you can move on to hanging the drawers. Cut the fronts to exact length, so they fit snugly into the case. Subtract 1/32вЂі from the distance to allow for a gap above the drawer. (Make the shims from three pieces of manila file folder taped together.) When you get to the top drawer, measure the opening to obtain an exact fit. Place shims on the bottom of the case and on top of each front to create 1/32вЂі gaps between each drawer. As you cut the fronts, stack them inside the case ( Photo 8). Rip the fronts and sides at the same time, starting with the lowest drawer. Rip the drawer sides the same width as each drawer front. Measure the last front so it fits just right. Stack the drawer fronts inside the case, placing shims in between. Measure the width that they add up to-it may be a little more or a little less than your math indicated. Set up your box joint jig, fine-tune its setting until the joints fit right, then cut 27 fingers (or whatever number you want) on a slightly wider test piece. Multiplying an odd number (in this case, 27) by the width of the fingers (3/8вЂі) gave me an overall width of 10-1/8вЂі as a target.ДonвЂ™t rip your boards to a theoretical width such as this, however: Do a real-world test.

#Plans for wooden tool box full

When I make box joints, IвЂ™ve found that itвЂ™s easier to keep track of the cutting process if I make an odd number of fingers-this means that the box joints on the top and bottom pieces begin and end with full fingers. I think box joints look best if the fingers are longer than they are wide on this box, the fingers are 1/2вЂі long (the thickness of the material), but only 3/8вЂі wide. Be sure to plane some additional wood to the same thickness for making test cuts with your box joint jig.Дetermine the exact width of your side, top and bottom pieces by the number of fingers your box joints will have. ItвЂ™s best to be conservative and remove only 1/8вЂі or so in one session, let the wood rest for a few days, re-joint it, then plane again. In order to make accurate box joints, your pieces must be absolutely flat, and IвЂ™ve learned the hard way that wood may not stay flat if you reduce its thickness too rapidly. If youвЂ™re starting with 4/4 (1вЂі) lumber, donвЂ™t take the wood down to this thickness right away. The top and bottom (A) and sides (B) of the case are only 1/2вЂі thick.